Look For Kidde 915 Battery Operated Smoke Alarm at Amazon
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14 of 14 people found the following review helpful. 6 of 6 people found the following review helpful. I wanted something to block out the snoring, but at the same time I needed to hear this snorer if he spoke or got up and moved about, so I was worried about using ear plugs. These were PERFECT for my needs–they block out 99% of the snore sounds, but so far, over several weeks use, I’ve been able to hear the snorer if he speaks to me (or talks in his sleep) or gets out of bed and moves around the room. 4 of 4 people found the following review helpful. |
8 of 10 people found the following review helpful. 0 of 0 people found the following review helpful. 2 of 11 people found the following review helpful. |
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful. 2 of 3 people found the following review helpful. 0 of 0 people found the following review helpful. |
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309 of 314 people found the following review helpful. The top of the pin has a blunt-flat end on it, and the business end is sharp. Since they are so tiny, if you don’t notice the arrows on the side, it is easy to load them upside down. It doesn’t have the safety nose that requires plunging like the rest of the Porter Cable finish nailer line. That way you can get into finely cramped quarters, and get the pin in at your desired angle. What PC did, was put two levers on the handle, one is a safety release, and the other one is the firing trigger. It is well engineered that way, and is easy and intuitive to use. How about the pin, does it show? On the first test pieces, with 5 drops of break in oil, it showed on the pine. After blowing it out with 20 pins, the oil deposits stopped, and all you saw was the pin hole. Does the pin hole become invisible by wiping water on the wood? I am getting critical here, but yes it does show. I was dreaming of the wood swelling, and making the pin hole completely invisible. That didn’t happen in the pine and oak I tested it in. BUT the pin hole is so small, that all but the most critical customers will object to it. I have to admit that it is so tiny, that it couldn’t be any smaller without disappearing altogether. Miniscule is the appropriate word here. It makes an 18 gauge finish nail look like a crater in comparison. For light colored wood it is barely visible, and for medium to dark woods it will disappear altogether. So if you are looking to attach really fine work, like 1/4″ quarter round mldgs, this is just what the doctor ordered. I tried to be critical of the impression if any the head would leave in the work. When working with oak, even at the highest pressures, it did not leave a mark. Pine on the other hand, required a gentle touch. If you pressed down on the head while firing, it left a tiny impression. If you laid the head gently onto the surface, and fired, it left no impression whatsoever. Considering that pine is so soft, that you can leave an impression in it with your finger nail, I laid to rest any concerns about dimples in the wood. The air pressure range prescribed by PC is 60 to 100 PSI. It is advisable to stay within that range, whereas excessive pressures can cause problems. I imagine the firing apparatus is designed to ideally work within those ranges, and subjecting it to excessive pressure is reason for concern. I tweaked my regulator on the wall to 105 pounds, which would give me 100 or less at the gun, and it fired well without any difference in the head impression on the work. So what does all of this mean? Simply put, I love this tool. It does the job beautifully, appears to do so without any suggestion of malfunctioning. I have the Porter Cable 16 gauge, and the 18 gauge both in the BN 125A and the 200A, and this makes my fourth PC finish level nailer, and not one of them has given me any problems. (They can misfire if you run them dry. I guess that is why PC always includes a squeeze bottle of oil with every nailer.) This is a keeper. I bought the other size pin nails as well. They come in 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″, and 1 inch. It comes with the 3/4″, so I picked up the other sizes. 81 of 83 people found the following review helpful. The longer the panel sits in clamps the better chance the glue has to “grab”. To facilitate this I used two sets of clamps. I glued and assembled one panel in the first set of clamps, fired 5/8″ pins into the joints and let that sit while I assembled a second panel in the second set of clamps. The clamps pull the joint together and the 5/8″ long pins perfectly “pin” the tenon in the joint and hold the frame together once released from the clamps. Once the third panel was assembled I went back and removed the first panel from the clamps and set it aside to allow the glue to completely set, by the time I got back to the first panel the glue had just enough time to grab and the joint didn’t budge. Just remember that they are 23 gauge pins and are there only to hold things together until the glue does it’s job, so you can’t be reefing on the joints until the glue has been completely set. In this alternating method I assembled all 56 panels in less than a day, totally cool! I estimated it would have taken the better part of a week to have done the same in the “traditional” way with only clamps.
The PC pinner performed flawlessly even without “PC brand” pins and regardless of the material (Western Red Cedar is like hard butter and Iroko is just as hard and stringy as Elm) the pins were set perfectly each and every time at 100 psi. For everyone who has used nail guns, you do have a tendency to push down prior to firing a nail to push back the safety arm. This pinner has a trigger safety on it that you pull back with your finger, so there is no requirement to push down, just set the nose on the surface and pull the trigger. There is a bit of bounce back but I found that even on Western Red Cedar I could avoid a large “nose dint” by using care in how I held the gun against the surface of the material. I can see how this gun would be very easy to jamb as the pins have no head. The pins have an arrow on them indicating which way they get inserted in the gun for good reason. The ram is tiny and must be machined to very tight tolerances (which contributes greatly to the high cost of such a small and specialized tool), I would imagine that if the ram gets distorted or damaged in any way this gun will be problematic from there ever-after. So handle and use this tool with care, if ever there was a nail gun to put the prescribed drop of oil in prior to use this is it. I’m sure I will find a million other uses for this gun over time, but for now I’m very pleased that it worked like a charm for the purpose I bought if for. You’ve got to love it when a new tool pays for itself on the first job!
One other piece of advice, this is NOT the gun for you if you are looking for a “nail gun”. This is a “pinner” and should ONLY be used for that purpose. It can fire pins between 1/2″ and 1″ in length ONLY, most nail guns can fire nails from 3/4″ to 2 1/2″ in length. For general nailing buy a gun that fires 18 or 15 gauge nails, they are relatively cheap, much more durable and the nails are cheaper. Made in Taiwan yes, but made to very high standards so I have nothing disparaging to say on that front. Highly recommended. 80 of 86 people found the following review helpful. The project at hand required a lot of crawling around and under, and using several different lengths of pins. The PIN100 never jammed. In retrospect the only small irritations occurred before I got used to the trigger safety. Which insisted on doing what it was supposed to do – keeping me from pinning myself. This is a very light-weight, easy to work tool – perfect for hobbyists and for professionals. The nail size adjustment is automatic, if you follow the instructions. One thing to keep in mind is that the pins get driven below the surface only erratically. But they never stopped above the surface either. But remember to work with the air at about 100 psi. I wound up taking a nail and grinding the tip a bit to sink the pins, and this worked fine. On dark wood or with some carefil placement, they pretty much disappear. The best recommendation I can give is that I find myself reaching for the PIN100 a lot when I’m gluing up small joinery. It has saved me a lot of time and added an extra element of security. I think that if you try it, you will see what I mean. |
45 of 45 people found the following review helpful. That’s why I bought this compost tool and it’s better than nothing since at least it helps move the compost around. However, it’s not easy to push the tool down into the heap and half the time, the tines don’t open up when you pull it back up. The tines are also quite short, so they don’t catch much when they do open. Still, I haven’t found a better alternative and if you use a up and down motion (rather like churning butter) it helps somewhat. In short, I give it a qualified recommendation if you have no other way of turning your contained compost pile. 15 of 15 people found the following review helpful. 12 of 13 people found the following review helpful. |
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful. Design: This trainer is made to simulate the Cold Steel R1 Military Classic knife, as mentioned in the product description. It’s a WWII-era design, and is based on the Randall Model 1. The R1 Classic (real knife) is 11 5/8″ long with a 7″ blade. The trainer is 11 1/2″ long with a 6 3/4″ blade. Nearly identical, the real knife is only slightly longer, similar to a traditional Bowie or USMC Ka-Bar. From an offensive training perspective, I prefer my trainer to be slightly shorter than what I carry. Handle: The checkering on the handle is great, adds realism and definitely improves grip when hands are sweaty. The large hilt is accurate and stiff, adds so much to disarm drills and the overall appearance of being a real weapon. Blade: The blade portion is stiff! Always wear proper personal protective equipment when using this, or any, training tool. You only get one set of eyes. There is some side-to-side flex but much less than with a lot of other rubber trainers. The blade portion is thick, and quite durable. Well rounded point. The heft isn’t like that of a real blade, there is no metal shank or ability to add weight if desired. While that is a drawback, it also improves safety. If you train with a group, or run a gym/dojo, having a handful of these available just seems like a great bargain. Full-size, durable, realistic, for $9 each. Really can’t beat that in my book. 2 of 2 people found the following review helpful. 1 of 1 people found the following review helpful. |
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful. 4 of 4 people found the following review helpful. 3 of 3 people found the following review helpful. |
28 of 28 people found the following review helpful. 22 of 22 people found the following review helpful. 36 of 39 people found the following review helpful. I bought this light because I wanted to have both long and short wave lengths of UV light, that way if one thing didn’t light up with one wavelength, it was sure to light up with the other. Make sure you buy the Black one for this dual UV light feature. The overall construction of this light is pretty solid and hefty. The weight of the 3 C batteries adds to the heft, but even without them, it’s a beefy light with aggressive knurling. I’m pretty sure the anodizing is only type II, and NOT type III hard anodizing, which is a shame, but not a deal breaker. Besides not having a HA-III coating, the only other thing I can complain about as far as the construction quality is the cheap plastic reflector. I’m not sure if this light has regulated power output or not, but I seriously doubt it. The incandescent bulb produces a decent amount of light, but the reflector and optics produce an ugly beam pattern with artifacts and asymmetries. The UV lights are very neat and really do the job that UV light is intended for, but they aren’t bright enough to get a wow factor in the day. Wait until night time and walk around your house with the house lights off… very cool to see everything. So overall, I’m glad I have this light because of the neat things you can do with the dual wavelength UV light. I see the white incandescent bulb main light as just a bonus, icing on the cake type of thing. It just means that if I bring this light to somewhere to play with the UV, I won’t have to also lug around a regular white light in case I need to see regular in the dark. I wish it was smaller and used 1 or 2 CR123A batteries instead though. Pretty good and neat light overall. |